Life Along the Mississippi, cont'd


©2013 Text & Photos by LeeZard
Saturday September 7 – Keokuk, Iowa-Caledonia, Minnesota
With the exception of some high speed U.S. Highway driving today, I will be mostly on county and state roads running parallel to, but several miles away from, the Mississippi River. This is still Iowa and, except for the occasional “corn fed” beef on the hoof, it is again cornfield after cornfield, interrupted by the occasional cornfield. I still prefer it to freeway/interstate driving.
As I near the Minnesota state line the straight roads and cornfields begin to give way to more S-curves, hills, thick stands of trees and then forest. The occasional farm always a presence as well.

Sunday September 8 – Caledonia, Minnesota-La Crosse, Wisconsin
My plan for today doesn’t include a trip back across the Mississippi River to La Crosse, WI but as I survey downtown Caledonia, MN this morning it dawns on me that I’ve seen and written about too many Caledonia’s; towns with populations of 1,500-2,500. Farms surround them; many of which are doing well while the downtowns are deathly quiet with For Rent signs in empty stores all along their main Streets. La Crosse here I come.
In this neck of the woods La Crosse is THE big city with a 2012 population of 51,647. It has a long history, beginning with French fur traders who traveled the Mississippi in the late 17th Century. There is no formal written record of any visits to the area until Zebulon Pike – yes, that Pike – explored this part of the Mississippi under the American Flag in 1805. Pike wouldn't reach his Peak until 1806.
And, guess what! According to the Wisconsin Historical Society, Pike actually named the location for a game he noticed the natives playing. The sticks with which they were catching and tossing a small ball resembled a bishop’s crozier or, in French, a La Crosse. The first White settlement in 1841was a fur trading post. La Crosse became a city in 1856. The city’s thriving Historic Downtown began to grow from that point in time.
My research shows La Crosse is one of those places that weathered The Great Recession better than most. One reason is the fact that the two largest employers are the Gundersen Lutheran Medical Center and The Mayo Clinic Health System. The city also is home to three regional colleges and universities. Several major corporations have their international headquarters here as well, including:

  • Trane, the air conditioning company now owned by Ingersoll Rand
  • City Brewing Co., formally Heileman.
  • Kwik Trip, regional gas and convenience stores (believe me, they are all over the midwest)
  • Logistics Health, Inc., health care solutions for government and commercial customers.
Other indicators also show La Crosse’s endurance. Home sales remain steady, running mostly between 600-700 over the past five years although new home construction permits are half of their peak 49 in 2004.
In 2010 the Wisconsin Council on Children and Families studied the recession’s impact on La Crosse County. While unemployment was up, it was still nearly 4 percent below the national average. The loss of jobs, ironically, meant a loss of health insurance in this health-care-centric city.
Still, I hear some intriguing stories as I enjoy a latte sitting outside of a small downtown espresso house (Only one Starbuck’s shows up in my La Crosse search!). The most interesting tales come from two young sisters headed for lunch at a nearby restaurant. They look like students and, while there are some stories worth telling in this group, there are also so many who hardly have a clue about the recession or its affects.
Twenty-two year old Kelsey is a recent college grad who holds a part time job running an after school child care program. “It took probably more than a year of relentless searching before I could find this job,” she tells me.
Kelsey’s employer is a non-profit organization and, while she runs an after-school program, the organization relies primarily on federal grants for its funding and, “The day school education programs we can offer are diminished. The purse strings are tighter, cuts in staff, cuts in programs and cuts in benefits.”
“Luckily I don’t need many of those benefits right now because I’m young enough where I can still mooch off my parents insurance and, my husband recently left the military and he still has some benefits.”
“Still,” she continues, “my husband is a full time student now and we are living pay check to pay check. It’s rough.”
“Do you have any kids?” I ask.
As she begins to answer, Kelsey looks up as if the realization just strikes her. “No,” she starts slowly, “and I probably couldn’t afford it if I wanted to.”
Younger sister Brook displays a savvy maturity that belies her 19-years. “I’m still a full-time student,” she says, “and I am working as a server in a restaurant to pay my entire way through. I even worked my way through high school.”
“So,” I observe, “the recession began while you were in high school; probably didn’t affect you.”
Brook spears me with laser eyes as if I just fell off the turnip truck, “Are you kidding? It was almost impossible to find a job. People much older who were losing their higher paying jobs were going down to take the jobs that high school kids would normally take.”
“I didn’t work my entire freshman year (at Brigham Young University) because I couldn’t find a job. I had to use my own savings to pay for school. I’m lucky; most students paying their way through school didn’t have savings. I spent probably $5,000 a semester.”
This determined young woman reminds me of something I’m seeing all around the country; we are strong and resilient. As The Great Recession continues to blow through The Real America, we will bend in the wind but we will not break.





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